Training

Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category

Perfect Fitness App from Kinetic Loop

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

Description

Perfect Fitness Plus is a comprehensive app that includes an extensive exercise video library (which provides step-by-step instructions), hydration calculator, and a nutrition calculator, so you can train like the pros with all the information in the palm of your hands. Our cutting-edge program is specifically designed to help the beginner to the professional athlete achieve optimal performance. Whether you want to lose weight or learn new exercises, we have the solution for you.
Are you tired of doing the same old exercise routine? Or are you a beginner who doesn’t know where to start? Our app makes it easy for you to learn new exercises, which are shown in a step-wise progression. Each of the exercises is broken into the following categories: stretching, balance, core, plyometric, general (upper and lower body), and even sports specific exercises.

Exercise Library:

Perfect Fitness Plus a complete video and instruction exercise library for over 300 exercises. The exercises are broken into categories. For example stretching has static, dynamic, and active isolated stretching. Balance, core, and plyometrics are broken into levels 1 – 3, with level 3 being requiring the highest level of neuromuscular efficiency and eccentric strength development.
General exercises are divided into upper body and functional exercises. Sports specific exercises for running, cycling, swimming, agility, and speed workouts are also included. If you want to run like the pros, try the running drills. The cycling and swimming exercises are practical exercises that a cyclist and swimmer can do in the gym or at home to develop endurance, speed, and power.

Nutrition Calculator:

Nutrition is an important part of any athletic training program. For endurance athletes, nutrition can mean the difference between “just finishing” and achieving a personal best. But how do you know how much carbohydrate, protein, and fat your body needs everyday? An elite male triathlete will have very different nutritional needs than a female recreational runner. Now it’s easy to find out with the Perfect Fitness Plus App (PFA).
Using standardized formulas that many sports dietitians use, the PFA can tell you how much carbohydrate, protein, and fat you need each day to perform at your very best. If you want to lose weight, the calculator will assist you in achieving your goal.

Hydration Calculator:

The PFA will also tell you how much fluid to consume to stay well-hydrated. All you need to know is your weight (in pounds*) pre and post activity. Punch in those numbers and the PFA will do the rest!

Features:

• Over 300 exercise videos with step-by-step instructions
• Hydration calculator with step-by-step instructions on how to properly stay hydrated
• Nutrition calculator with step-by-step instructions on how to properly fuel your body
• Pre-exercise meal requirement
• Protein requirements based on your type of sport
• Protein requirements for vegan athletes
• Post-exercise meal requirements for recovery
• Weight loss option in the nutrition calculator
• During exercise nutrition requirements.
• Ability to add your exercise to your favorites to create your very own workout
• Ability to share your exercises with your friends through Twitter, Facebook, etc

Perfect Fitness was designed by Coach Michael Lovegren, M.S. Biomechanics, to bridge the gap between you, and registered dietitians, coaches, personal trainers, health and fitness professionals, so that your fitness goals could be rapidly achieved.

To download go to: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/perfect-fitness-plus/id385094441?mt=8&ign-mpt=uo%3D4

My Best,

Michael Lovegren_____________________________

Michael Lovegren, M.S. CES USACC

M.S. Biomechanics

Biomechanist and Coach

USA Cycling Coach

Office 562-653-6140

Phone: 970-443-8752



Crash

Monday, June 21st, 2010

By Dave Jordaan Level 1 Cycling Coach

“Cycling is inherently a dangerous activity”. Heard that phrase before? It is on the waiver you sign when you race your bicycle. Although a crash is not always inevitable it is probably likely so I have put together some guidelines on what to do if you crash.

A crash always comes unexpectedly but you will know the moment that you are going to go down. Item 6 below will explain in more detail my recommendations to fine tune your ‘crash instinct’ but let’s assume you have no choice and do go down. You find yourself on the road and you are slightly disoriented and probably a little embarrassed. Unless you are in a life-threatening situation remain just where you are. Your immediate reaction is to jump up – do NOT get up or even unclip from your bike. Feel for any sharp pain, dizziness etc. You will immediately be experiencing the early signs of shock so it takes some concentration to overcome the adrenaline rush. Take a few deep breaths until you are certain you have your heart rate under control and can think clearly. Often spectators will rush up to you and want to pick you up. Let them know if you are OK. Feel for any injury yourself. If you feel that you do not have any possible serious injury try to sit-up (do not stand – yet). Re-assess your situation again. Before you get up make certain you are functioning calmly. Now you can decide if you are going to stand and move off the road. Now you can use the assistance of other riders or spectators. Move to a cool spot to assess yourself, and your bikes’, damage. Do not be the “macho” athlete, just accept any assistance offered. Once you are sitting in cool spot ask someone to hand you your water bottle and try to drink as much as possible as shock is dehydrating your system.

If you are in a race I do not recommend that you finish the event unless it is absolutely necessary. Continue only if you are contending for a podium finish or if you have to finish a stage. If you are in a training ride then get yourself home as quickly and painlessly as possible – even if you think your injuries are only slight – as there is more than a physical reaction to a crash. Accept temporary 1st aid and then treat yourself at home unless you suspect a serious problem then get yourself to the emergency room as quickly as possible. Note: NEVER turn down a ride in an ambulance if you have to go to a hospital as emergency rooms will make you wait if you walk in but they are obliged to treat ambulance entries IMMEDIATELY (this will save you 2-3 hours, or more, in the waiting room).

Due to advances (mainly in burn victim research) we have learnt that if you keep the road rash ‘wet’ it will heal quicker and cleaner. To this end thoroughly clean (even if takes a scrub) any road rash wounds. Scrub out all dirt. This will hurt but it is critical for healing. Once the wound is 100% clean of dirt you should cover all broken skin areas with triple antibiotic ointment on a non-stick pad. You can then wrap the area up with a bandage (self stick bandages are a huge leap in bandage technology – check them out). Keep your wounds ‘wet’ until the skin is fully healed i.e. change the bandage once a day, wash if necessary and then re-apply the ointment treated non-stick pad and bandage up again.
Once the new skin has grown over (still pink and tender) start applying Vitamin E cream in place of antibiotic ointment. If the healing wound is going to be exposed to the sun use heavy sunscreen until the scar area is unnoticeable.
As an overview and part and parcel of your training you will need to assess why the crash happened? Here are some common causes of crashes that you should work on;

  1. Number one cause of crashes on the road is when your front wheel has crossed the rear wheel of the rider you are following. It is simply a case of you being too close when the leading rider changes line or brakes. Crossing wheels however is not a good reason to go down as it is easily recoverable. When the wheels touched you panicked and made the situation worse, and simply ‘fell’ off your bike! Set aside at least one training day every year to practice touching wheels and bumping.
  2. Next leading cause of crashes is “lack of concentration”. There is always a crash on the most boring sections and times of riding or racing. The reason that these types of crashes happen is that the PACK simply lost concentration. Immediately any pack slows, sits up, starts drinking or speeds up, surges, stands especially at the base of climbs when there is a rush of slower riders trying to get to the front when the front riders are slowing for the hill, etc. are all signs for you to immediately increase concentration of your surroundings (pack and environment). More importantly you should plan to counteract low blood glucose levels (caused by low liver glycogen) by taking in energy gels every 45 minutes. That will help you to maintain your concentration at all times.
  3. Next up is cornering. I work very hard at teach the skill of cornering during training. Please help me to help you (avoid crashing) by working on technique (not speed) during training. Practice all three basic cornering techniques. The safest is to steer your bike (bike upright and body bent into the corner) and the most dangerous is leaning (body and bike leaning ala Velodrome). The fastest (and most casual) is to counter-steer (body upright and bike leaning). Practice when and how to pedal into, through and out of corners during training. EVERY corner you negotiate, whether in a huge pack or solo, is an opportunity to hone your skill – do not waste it by not concentrating fully on your technique. Choose which technique you are going to use and then concentrate and learn. It helps tremendously if you can include a few mountain bike and/or track training (smooth spinning) sessions each year to sharpen bike handing skills.
  4. There are many riders in your pack who are naturally talented and/or have too much Power (strength + speed) Vs. Skill (or brains). “I am the strongest rider in the pack and not afraid of anyone or anything” riders are a danger to themselves and to you. Learn to recognize these wheels and then steer clear of them even if it means giving up a win, as the sprint is most often EXACTLY where skill will fail this rider and you will be trapped in their immediate future!
  5. Then of course there is the problem (most often witnessed in juniors and rookies) of not respecting the pack. I have an article on pack etiquette that you should check out. Riding regularly in a large pack under controlled environment will help to gain the experience needed to make the ride safer. Until you understand the personality of each pack you ride in do not try to change the character of the ride, as most experienced packs will not tolerate lack of respect. Disrespect most often leads to on-bike ‘discussions’ and/or crashes.
  6. Finally there is the issue of panic. Of course, someone else is always to blame in a crash but you need to understand that crashes are most often avoidable. A problem in the pack is not a reason for you to panic and go down. When you are heading for a typical pre-crash scenario (screech, shouting, panic, mayhem, I cannot avoid this and it looks like I am going to crash – yep, I am going to crash, CRASH), your 1st instinct must be to look for an avenue to escape personally. This may mean falling on top of or riding over other riders! It may mean hitting the dirt or soft fall. It could mean some cross country. Whatever the choice – survival is your primary objective. If you can keep your cool and not panic you are already ahead of the game. Staying cool and calm – even over 30MPH is definitely possible. Look for an avenue of escape. Most often it means accelerating not braking. Here are some guidelines;
  1. Do not look at any crash site at any time.
  2. There will be a feeling of panic in the pack.
  3. Immediately switch on your ‘anti-panic receptors’ and concentrate 100% on personal survival.
  4. If you have time go to your drops (if it was a fast or dangerous situation you should have been in the drops already), wrists straight, elbows out, body stiff and full hands on the brakes but do not pull on them (yet)
  5. Do not look around, to the side or behind you – keep concentration looking ahead using your peripheral vision to look for the gap to accelerate to (it will be there)
  6. Get out of trouble. It is a game of personal survival. It does not matter where you are heading (on-road, off-road, over bikes) just hold YOUR bike upright, firm and under control.
  7. Once you are heading out of the crash vicinity do not look back
  8. Do not stop until you are fully out of trouble
  9. Note: I recommend accelerating, or least just slowing down and then looking for an avenue of escape, rather than grabbing a handful of brakes because a sudden stop caused by a crash is a very common cause of serious back injury as the concertina effect (same as taking off from a stop) is exaggerated when you stop suddenly i.e. riders at the back of the group are still going 30mph and you have stopped. A blow from the behind caused by a speeding bike is often the cause of long term back damage! Be aware of this and if you have to stop then you must make every urgent attempt to get out of the way of the cyclists racing into the scene of the crash. If you are on the ground you must “cover up”. If you are not then get out of the way.

Finally: If you want to mitigate the possibility of injury then learn to land well. I recommend that you take a (even one-session) course in Judo or Gymnastics at the local dojo. This makes a huge difference in the result of a crash and is time very well invested (plus it is fun). Rolling well or simply not putting your wrists out is a technique that you can learn in these programs.  I have focused this paper on the road but mountain bikers will find plenty of useful information here as well. Mountain bikers however must include a few cycles of training each year that incorporate technical bike handling skills.

I would like to personally thank Dave Jordaan for providing this article and believe it is a great resource to all cyclist whether road, mountain, or even BMX.

Article provided by Kinetic Loop Training Systems (www.kineticloop.org)


Out of Matches?

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

By Mike Burris of Impulse CYCLEsport

There is a quote from Joe Friel in his book, The Cyclist’s Training Bible, that I believe is the single greatest nugget of wisdom in that book. It reads, “Every time you put your wheel on the starting line there is an emotional investment. After some number of these in a short period of time, the rider loses enthusiasm. It’s as if you only have so many matches to burn, and once they are all used up, the body and mind are unwilling to continue.”

This quote comes from Friel’s section on “Racing into Shape” as a method of training. The idea is to build a base of 1000 miles of easy riding and then race as much as possible. In our area you can race on the weekends, do a Tuesday World’s ride, and a Thursday night time trial every week if you want to. For some, the mental and physical cost of riding hard this much is fine and does produce good results. For many, especially masters racers, training this way quickly leads to burnout.

Here’s why:

Consider a competitive, category 3-masters racer that trains 12 hour a week. Assume this rider can produce 4 watts/kg at threshold. If this rider races in a master field or often rides with local, elite riders then this rider will have to dig deep to compete. Said another way, this rider will burn significantly more “matches” on a fast group ride or in a race than the better riders in his field or group. (A “match” is a term used to describe efforts well above threshold for longer than 30 seconds). This means recovery will take longer and the long-term impact or cumulative fatigue will be greater.

Why is this important? Many riders consider local world’s rides, training criteriums, or time trials merely part of their training and not races per se. This can very well be the case depending on the efforts. However, if a rider is regularly putting in more than a few efforts well above threshold (i.e. burning a lot of matches) then these events will take the same toll as races. Furthermore, there is a much higher emotional investment in these rides than there is in doing sets of intervals because of the “competition” factor. If this rider is also racing a lot, then the “matchbook” quickly becomes empty.

The take away message here is to be careful about riding too hard, too much. Just because you see others racing every weekend as well as doing every local event there is, does not mean it is good for you. I am convinced that mental fatigue is just as detrimental as physical fatigue. The two together can ruin a season. Take plenty of rest between hard days, especially if they are really hard days. When you see your enthusiasm start to wane, back it down and ride easy or rest altogether.

Do not feel like you have to be at every local event every week or race every weekend. Make sure they fit your training plan. And, if you do choose to attend, monitor your efforts. Save your matches for when you really need them.

Mike Burris is the Director of Impulse CYCLEsport. Mike is a USA Cycling certified coach, the Training Director at epicPlanet.tv, and the Team Director of the Burris Logistics-Fit Werx Masters Racing Team. Mike always enjoys working with a variety of athletes. For more information go to www.impulsecyclesport.com


Blast the Competition!

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Jason Gootman & Will Kirousis

Tri-Hard Endurance Sports Coaching

You know who you want to beat. Your friend, your sister-in-law, that guy that always seems to win your age group. The only way you’re going to beat them is to better yourself. Here’s five ways to do just that and blast the competition this summer.

Devour Hills

If it were possible to swim up hills, we’d tell you to do that. That’s how great hill workouts are. No matter what your current ability level is, riding and running up hills will make you better. There’s no better workout.

For both cycling and running, find hills in your area that take you anywhere from 30 seconds to five minutes to ride and run up. Sandwiched between a good warm-up and cool-down, work up to a set of 15-30 minutes of work intervals.

For example, 16 X 1’, 8 X 3’, 6 X 5’. Ride/run up the hill at an intensity that is +/­eight BPM of your average heart rate in a 12-mile or 30-minute time-trial (for cycling) and a three-mile time trial or recent 5-k race (for running). For example, if you averaged 160 BPM In a recent 12-mile time trial for cycling, do your work intervals at 152-168 BPM. Go hard, but pace yourself, parcel out your effort, for the whole set of intervals, just as you would do in a race. You want to get as far up the hill, or further up the hill, on your last interval as you did on your first interval.

For the rest interval, for cycling, coast down the hill practicing your descending skills. For running, run easy down the hill, staying light on your feet.

For cycling, stay seated for most intervals and most hill workouts. But mix in some standing climbing for variety. For example, you could do 8 X 3’, where you stayed seated for the first 2’ 45” of each climb, then stood for the last 15”. Or for 16 X 1’, you could stay seated for all intervals except for numbers 4, 8, 12, and 16, for which you’d stand. Mix things up, but keep climbing those hills.

Read more…Blast the Competition cont.


Basic Cycling Tips for Beginners

Sunday, May 16th, 2010

by Amanda Russell, Endurance Coaching

This is a recap of points covered during a group ride and clinic I held for beginner triathletes last week that I sent out to participants.

Braking:  Your right brake lever is for the rear brake, your left brake lever is the front brake.  Never use only your front brake. This could result in doing what’s known as an “endo”!  Head first flipping over the bike.  We don’t want that. ;)

1. Use the rear brakes for general braking.

2. When going down a hill, if you need to brake, or anytime you are braking and you need a little extra resistance to slow you, tap the front brakes while rear braking.

3. Use both in unison to stop.  Should you need to make a sudden stop, shift your weight to the back of the saddle, or even a little behind, as you brake.

Shifting & Gears:  Your right shifter is for the rear derailleur that moves the chain on your rear cassette on the hub of your rear wheel.  Your left shifter is for shifting the chain at the chain rings at you pedals.  You will do most of your shifting on the rear cassette.  Pedaling while shifting will prevent “dropping your chain” (chain falls off rings).

If your chain is on the big chain ring (front) and smallest cog or sprocket (rear), then you are in your hardest gear.  If the chain is on the small chain ring (front) and biggest cog (rear), then you are in your easiest gear.

A general rule of thumb for determining which chain ring (front) you want to be on is that you generally want your chain to be in the middle range of cogs on the cassette.  Of course, if you need your easiest gear to get up a hill, or your hardest gear to pedal forcefully on a downgrade or in a tail wind, then you will be on the outer cogs.  Learning your gearing to keep the chain in the middle range of cogs will prevent extra wear on you chain and rings that occurs when it is pulled diagonally.

Everyone will generally have a preferred, natural cadence they like to pedal.  (Cadence = # pedal revolutions per minute)  Typically, you want to be between 80 and 90 rpm.  Riding at less than that is making your muscles work harder and is not very economical. Riding at higher than makes your lungs and heart work harder.  Typical is 85 rpm.  I can explain more about the relationship of muscles and energy systems to cadence and gearing for anyone that wants to know. Just ask me.  I’ll mention it a bit at our next ride when we go over gearing on varying terrain.

Fixing a dropped chain:  You’re getting your hands dirty…no way around it.  If your chain falls off while you’re riding, you will suddenly not be able to pedal with resistance anymore.  Don’t attempt to pedal backward or you may jam your chain and it could be very difficult to get out.

If it drops off, shift your shifter to the position for the small chain ring if it’s not already.  Get off your bike, stand on the side of the bike that the chain is and pull it towards the front of the bike at the chain ring and drop it back onto the smaller chain ring.  Lift your rear wheel and use you hand to cycle the pedals through a few rotations. It should settle into it’s gear.

Changing a flat tire:

Deflate tire completely.

Wedge tire lever under tire bead in a spot away from the valve.  Try to pop tire out.  If it’s hard to, hook the lever onto a spoke and use a second lever a few inches away from there to get the tire to pop.  It may take a bit of effort depending on how tight the fit is.

Once you get a spot to pop, run the lever around the rim to release the entire side of the tire.

Push valve through hole, pull out inner tube.

Put new (or patched) tube valve through hole and carefully work your way around the wheel pushing the tube into the tire cavity. Be careful not to let the tube twist around.

At valve, push valve up into tire with one hand while you seat the tire bead into the wheel rim, then seat a few more inches of the tire into the rim.

Work your way around the wheel, popping the tire on.  Do both sides together and work away from the valve.  You can use your thumbs typically, the palm of your hand or a tire lever.  Be careful not to let the tube get pinched between the tire bead and the rim as you go around. The tire should go on easily until you get to about 6-8” left.

This part can go very easily, or it can bring you to tears if it’s a tight fit. If you have a tough time…you’re not the only one!  I’ve cried over many, but if you relax and take a break, you’ll get it on there.  And the more you do, the easier it gets. The trick here is to hold the wheel so that the unseated stretch is away from you. Place your hands over the bead on each side and with the part of your hands that gets callused, try to roll the tire over the rim.  You may have to do it repeatedly, with a lot of pressure and your hands may hurt, but keep working the outer edge of that 8″ until it starts to roll up and over the rim and you can pop the last 1″ or so in.

Check around the wheel by pulling the tire bead back slightly to make sure the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim.  If it is, you can usually work it under carefully with the tire lever.

Pull valve up as far as it will go. Inflate with pump. (Make sure you unscrew the top of the valve to allow for airflow)

Hand pumps are great and they’re portable, but they are very difficult to use to inflate a high pressure road tire.  Consider getting a CO2 pump head and cartridges.  They are even smaller and easier to carry, and inflate to full pressure automatically.

Clipless pedals:

If you are just getting used to them or are planning to get them, here are a few tips for getting in and out of them.

When you get on your bike, clip one foot in with the pedal all the way down at 6 o’clock. Push off and get rolling then bring that foot all the way down again and clip your other foot into it’s pedal with pedal at 12 o’clock.  A gentle push down and forward should pop it in.

When you want to stop, bring the foot you are going to clip out up to 12 o’clock. Unclip (twist it out) and try not to lift it off the pedal (this will prevent the pedal from flipping around).  You can then just rest your foot on the pedal until you are ready to come to a complete stop and put your foot on the ground.  If you try to unclip with your foot at 6 o’clock, you may lose balance.

Happy safe, and hopefully hassle free, riding!

Amanda Russell

Endurance Coaching

www.arecoaching.com


Watts are the Way

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010

Check out the latest article on training with power by Joey Adams, M.S. by clicking the link: Watts are the Way.

Joey Adams is the owner of Intelligent Fitness. Intelligent Fitness provides human performance assessments for endurance athletes.


Hey! Its Spring…..Why Is My Swimming Slowing Down?

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

By Coach Suzan Ballmer, M.Ed

So, you have spent the winter really focusing on your swim technique, efficiency, power & speed. You
have seen a steady improvement and are having a lot of fun keeping pace with the faster swimmers at
masters.

Then the weather changed and you went for some bike rides outside focused on endurance and building
your outdoor base. It felt so great to feel the road and the wind and get out of the saddle to climb a bit.
If anyone saw you, they would notice first the huge grin spread across your face.

The next morning you headed to your usual masters swim practice—a bit fatigued, but feeling good
and happy. You jump in and throughout the warm up you feel heavy, exhausted, uncoordinated and
ssslllloooowwww. What is going on?

Well, outdoor riding taxes your whole body differently than indoor work. You are using your upper
body a lot more during climbing, breaking, & holding steady in the aero bars,. Your whole system is
absorbing the impact of the road and finally your legs are working more during climbs and pushing
through head winds. As a result, your swimming feels heavy and slows down.

Don’t despair! It generally takes about 2-3 weeks for your body to adjust to the change. Then, that well
earned speed that you worked so hard to find during the cold months of winter will return.
Hey, just remember you’re a triathlete and this is just one more challenge to overcome. :D

Coach Suzan Ballmer, M.Ed
Breakaway Athletic Coaching


Why Do We Bike Slower In The Cold Weather?

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

By Dean Phillips, Fit Werx

Have you ever noticed that your average bike speed is slower when it’s cold out? Look no further than any local 10-mile weekly time trial and some riders seem to be up to a minute slower on the coldest days compared to their PR times on warm mid summer days. The opposite tends to happen in running road races – hot temperatures always seem to result in slower run times. So why do cyclists go faster in these conditions?

Fortunately for cyclists, warm days provide two distinct benefits that runners don’t capitalize on: 1) Lower Air Density and 2) Lower Tire Rolling Resistance.

Lower Air Density

Air density is a measurement of how dense or thick the outdoor air is. Outdoor air temperature is inversely proportional to air density, so that means when the temperature gets warmer air density gets lower. Lower air density results in lower aerodynamic drag on a cyclist, so that cyclist will go faster for a given effort. How much faster? Let’s take an example of a cyclist that can ride a 10-mile bike loop in 28:30 or about 21mph on a day when the temperature is 80 deg F. This same cyclist rides this same 10-mile loop again on a day when the temperature is 50 deg F. The change in air density alone causes the time to increase to 29:00 and average speed drops to 20.7mph. Unfortunately for this colder weather rider, the losses don’t stop there, as increased tire rolling resistance will further reduce speeds.

Lower Tire Rolling Resistance

Tire rolling resistance measures how much energy it takes to roll your tires over the pavement. When a tire contacts the ground it deforms and then springs back to its original shape. Every time this happens energy is lost in the form of heat. A warmer tire has improved elasticity and will lose less energy during this contact with the pavement. Many riders have noticed that it’s easier to change a flat tire on a warm summer day when the tire seems to push back onto the rim with little effort compared to a cold day. While we know warmer tires have lower rolling resistance putting an exact value on that change is challenging. A rolling tire is continuously generating heat and while a portion of that heat is lost to the surrounding air, there is also a portion that heats up the tire itself. The faster the tire rolls the faster it heats up. A sunny day will keep the pavement hotter, which also impacts tire temperature. Different tire models will heat up at different rates as well. The exact change can vary, but you can expect to see tire rolling resistance increase approximately 6% for every 10 degree F reduction in outside temperature. Now let’s get back to our rider who’s already been reduced to 20.7mph because of increased air density on the colder day. Adjusting for the increased rolling resistance this rider will average less than 20.5mph and see the time increase to 29:18! This poor rider is going to go home thinking he/she needs to train more when the reality is the outdoor temperature alone caused the 50 second increase in time and 0.5mph reduction in average speed.

What About Overheating?

Will the warmer temperature reduce power output? If it gets hot enough and you ride long enough you will eventually see a decrease in power output on the bike from hot conditions. It’s unlikely that you’ll see a reduction in cycling power for events shorter than 20 minutes simply because they’re over before your body has a chance to overheat. Unlike running in the heat, cyclists still have a 20+ mph fan blowing over them that provides significant cooling even in hot temperatures. While your heart rate will likely approach record highs in bike events in the heat, when push comes to shove cyclists can still generate their normal power over these shorter durations. Even if there’s a small power reduction from your body overheating, it’s more than offset by the very fast conditions created by the warm temperatures so most riders won’t notice. In the end everybody rides the bike faster when it’s hot out.

The chart below summarizes the changes in speed and time to complete a 10-mile cycling event in these two temperature conditions. We’ll use examples of two different riders to show that these time reductions impact everybody similarly. Values for rider weight, power, aerodynamic drag coefficient (CdA), coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr), and air density are provided for comparison in each condition.

Air Temp

(deg F)

Power

(watts)

Weight

(lbs)

CdA

Crr

Air Density (kg/m^3)

Speed

(mph)

Time

Result

Rider 1

80

200

150

0.30

0.0040

1.165

21.0

28:30

50

200

150

0.30

0.0049

1.234

20.5

29:18

48 sec slower

Rider 2

80

300

200

0.35

0.0040

1.165

23.0

26:01

50

300

200

0.35

0.0049

1.234

22.4

26:43

42 sec slower

The speed reductions don’t always end there either. In addition to the colder weather slowing you down, cyclists tend to bundle up in extra layers, booties, gloves, tights and jackets when it gets cold out. All these extra layers simply compound the already slower conditions by increasing aerodynamic drag further.

Keep all this in mind next time you blame those slower winter and early season speeds on lack of fitness!

DP

Dean Phillips is a co-owner of Fit Werx² in Peabody, MA. Dean frequently writes tech articles for Begginertriathlete.com and is humble enough that he would likely never tell you (so we’ll tell you for him) just how fast he is on a bike. Dean holds multiple TT course records in New England, having broken records previously held by some of America’s best pro cyclists and he set these while being a father of three your children and owning his own business. Dean knows speed and how to get the most out of his training time.


Ride With Others.

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

By Mike Burris, USA Cycling Coach

I remember when I started riding. It was about ten years ago. I had allowed myself to become an overweight, workaholic during my 20s and was in desperate need of exercise both to halt the weight gain and to reduce the stress. My lawyer at the time was a cyclist and he invited me to join his group for a ride one Saturday morning. Always one for a little competition, I accepted the invitation.

I showed up for the ride with my brand new Litespeed and shiny new Time bike shoes. The spandex was fairly tight with a significant amount of gut “overhang,” but I was ready nonetheless.

Out we went. The pace quickened. My breathing became heavy. Heavier. Holy #$^&! The gap between me and the rest of the group widened until I was way off the back. The group sat up and slowed the pace down for a little while allowing me to catch back on. This happened 3 or 4 times before I humbly gasped, “Boys, I ain’t ready for this.”

I rode by myself back to my car and collapsed. The sad thing was, I don’t think they were riding that hard at all compared to the average pace of rides these days. I will always remember that ride because it became my motivation to take training seriously. I never wanted that to happen again.

By the end of that summer I was fit and fast enough to put those guys into difficulty. I took great pleasure in being able to ride with that original group. I would use those rides to gauge fitness and continually motivate me to get faster.

Fast forward to today (10 years later). My team took a ride together yesterday, our first team ride of the year. Because I put the team together, I am highly motivated to do well. I have trained hard over the winter to ensure that I had good form going into the season. Not because I have a huge ego (okay I do) but because I know how motivating it can be to both drop, and be dropped by your peers.

We had a fantastic ride. 60+ miles with 3500 feet of up and down, no wind, and no clouds. Absolutely spectacular conditions for this time of year. I felt unbelievably good and I rode very well. My training was paying off. For me, the group ride was affirmation of this fact.

Every guy out there took something from that ride. Either it was motivation to beef up the training or affirmation that they were on schedule. You don’t get this kind of feedback riding by yourself all the time. As one rider put it, “When you ride by yourself you go hard when you want to. When you ride with others, you go hard when you don’t want to.”

As a coach, I know that it is important to not let group rides disrupt your training, especially if you are in the early base periods. However, fast group rides and races require a level of fitness that you will not get through solitary riding. The point is that you should use these rides or races to enhance your training, giving you the fitness and feedback you need to really get faster.

Seek out the most appropriate ride for you, one that will push you beyond what you thought you could do. If you get dropped, you get dropped. So what. At least you know. Then you can craft a solid training program that will ensure you don’t get dropped again.

Happy riding, mb

Mike Burris is the Director of Impulse CYCLEsport. Mike is a USA Cycling certified coach, the Training Director at epicPlanet.tv, and the Team Director of the Burris Logistics-Fit Werx Masters Racing Team. Mike always enjoys working with a variety of athletes. For more information go to www.impulsecyclesport.com


Does Your Power Decline When Riding Indoors?

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Does Your Power Decline When Riding Indoors?

By Dean Phillips, Fit Werx

Many cyclists struggle to hold the same power output on a trainer that they maintain outside. Lack of motivation and scenery are often blamed, but the true answers are locked under the dust of your old physics textbooks from high school. I’ll save you the bad memories and explain…

The real reasons you struggle to hold power indoors are that there is less cooling effect and less flywheel effect indoors.

Less Cooling Effect

A cyclist cruising at 20mph outside experiences the equivalent of a big 20mph cooling fan continually blowing air over them. When you are riding a trainer, that massive 20mph headwind is gone. Without adequate cooling (just like any engine), your body temperature rises faster, your perceived effort goes up, and eventually your power output declines as you overheat. From a thermodynamics standpoint, this is an example of how forced convection from blowing air provides far more cooling than free convection in still air.

Like most cyclists riding indoors, I start my workouts with a warm-up that gradually builds power over time. My basement is around 55 degrees and I often found that once I reached about 200 watts of resistance I hop off the bike and turn the fan on. I wondered why this seemed to happen at around 200 watts and the answer became apparent when I revisited my HVAC design engineering days.

In HVAC design, when a building contained a room dedicated for heavy work, standards had us design that room at 55 degrees Fahrenheit with a cooling load designed to remove 2000 BTU/hr, or 586 watts, of waste heat per person. Studies show that a cyclist has a metabolic efficiency of roughly 25% and, based on this, we can calculate how much power goes to the pedals and how much is lost as heat by using the formula 0.25 = W / (Q+W), where W is pedaling watts and Q is waste heat to the surroundings. Plug in 586 watts for Q, and W = 195 pedaling watts and the answer is 586/195 ≈ 3. Cyclists release 3 watts of waste heat for every 1 watt that’s applied to the pedals. This means that a rider pedaling at 195 watts can usually do so in a 55 degree ambient temperature room without an overheating problem, but if they apply additional watts, they will likely start to overheat.

Doesn’t the rider’s size have something to do with this? Yes and no. Overheating has more to do with the absolute power you ride at, and less to do with the power relative to your Functional Threshold Power (FTP). In other words, regardless of your size and weight, hitting 195 watts in a 55 degree room is what matters. A larger stronger cyclist riding at 16 mph and producing 195 watts may start overheating during warm-up, while a smaller cyclist may be going 18mph at 160 watts and may never overheat in the 55 degree room as they never cross that magic 195 watt threshold.

Overheating occurs when riding at a high enough power level for a long enough time overtaxes the body’s cooling system. The most challenging indoor cycling workouts are those that stress both power and duration – the “double whammy” of overheating. Long intervals such as 2×20 or 4×10 minute intervals at FTP are common staples for cyclists and triathletes, but these are among the toughest to perform indoors without suffering miserably and/or experiencing power loss. A power loss compared to riding these intervals outdoors at the same wattage is inevitable without substantial cooling assistance.

Shorter higher intensity intervals are more reasonable to perform – such as 5 x 2 minute VO2 max intervals. While the intensity is higher and the effort is hard, there isn’t enough time for lack of cooling to negatively impact results the way it does in longer intervals. Longer lower intensity workouts are also less prone to power loss.

Based on this, some potential solutions to the increased heating demands of riding indoors are as follows:

  1. Keep the room as cool as possible, preferably under 60 degrees. You likely will not win any points with your family or roommate(s) by opening the windows in the living room in January, so consider moving training to a cool basement. Remember, training must be tolerated by those around us first, and comfortable conditions come second. J
  2. Use a large fan for cooling; the more air it blows across your body the better. You can increase the fan speed for higher intensity workouts.
  3. When all else fails, restructure your indoor workouts into shorter higher intensity intervals and longer easier rides.

Flywheel Effect

When you stop pedaling on a flat road outside, you can coast up to a minute before coming to a complete stop, but when you stop pedaling on your indoor trainer, your rear wheel stops spinning in seconds. Why? Outside you have the momentum of the bike, rider, and spinning wheels; that’s a lot of momentum working in your favor. An indoor trainer replicates some of this momentum through the flywheel attached to the resistance unit – the larger the flywheel the longer it can hold its momentum. While a larger flywheel helps slow the deceleration of the rear wheel, it does not replicate the momentum you experience outdoors and thus you have to work harder to maintain momentum on a stationary trainer.

Because of the flywheel effect, the way you apply force throughout the pedal stroke also changes compared to riding outdoors. Outdoors, riding on flat terrain, we may think we’re pedaling in perfect circles at 90rpm from all those one-legged drills we did the prior winter, but the reality is the pedal force of the down stroke leg helps move the recovering leg through the back and top of the stroke and into position for the next down stroke. However, when you start to climb a hill, your pedaling becomes more similar to what happens on a trainer – if you ease off the pedals, you lose momentum quickly. Your cadence typically drops climbing hills or riding a trainer as smaller hip flexor muscles prefer to have more time to activate as they are lifting on the upstroke and pushing forward over the top of the pedal stroke. It’s quite common for a cyclist’s cadence to drop 20-30 rpm when they’re climbing a hill and riding at a lower cadence on an indoor trainer makes the effort feel more in line with that same perceived effort outside.

Try these solutions to give yourself more wheel speed and a larger “flywheel effect” riding indoors:

  1. Only use enough press-on force on the roller drum to prevent the tire from slipping.
  2. Use a trainer with a larger/heavier flywheel. Some trainers, like the Kinetic by Kurt, offer optional super heavy flywheel attachments.
  3. Use a lower rolling resistance tire on the trainer. Many cyclists use big thick tires that wear a long time on the trainer, but those tires typically come with a rolling resistance penalty and rolling resistance is amplified on the trainer.
  4. Take on the challenge of learning to ride rollers. The benefit of two wheels spinning instead of one improves road-like feel. If you can’t get the resistance you want on rollers, try higher resistance tires, smaller diameter roller drums, or – my favorite – letting air from the tires until you run out of gears right at the interval power you are targeting.

Once you’ve taken measures to improve flywheel effect riding indoors, the best solution is simply allowing your cadence to drop to a level that feels comfortable. Depending on the stationary trainer, I’ll let my cadence drop 5-15 rpm riding indoors. If you work with a coach, send them a link to this article and beg to ride at 85 rpm instead of 95 rpm for the workout you’ve been prescribed.

So there you have it. The keys to riding indoors at the same power level and perceived effort as you can ride at outside are: 1) Riding in a cool environment. 2) Find the largest fan possible. 3) Riding at a lower cadence to make up for the lesser flywheel effect.

Happy indoor training! J

DP

Dean Phillips is a co-owner of Fit Werx² in Peabody, MA. Dean frequently writes tech articles for Begginertriathlete.com and is humble enough that he would likely never tell you (so we’ll tell you for him) just how fast he is on a bike. Dean holds multiple TT course records in New England, having broken records previously held by some of America’s best pro cyclists and he set these while being a father of three children and owning his own business. Dean knows speed and how to get the most out of his training time.


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