Catlike Whisper Plus Helmet Review
Reviewed by Ian Buchanan

Description: The Catlike Whisper Plus is a top of the line road helmet made by Catlike, a specialty helmet company out of Spain.  Some of the design intentions include lightweight, maximal cooling, fit/comfort, safety, style and functionality/design.   Let’s break it down by each item:

Weight: The Catlike Whisper Plus weighs in at a very respectable 280  grams.  This puts it in the same weight range as helmets like Giro’s Ionus (275 grams) and on the lighter side of the weight spectrum, but my impression is that the physical weight of the helmet is not what really matters the most when it comes to how heavy a helmet feels on your head during a ride.  What matters most is weight distribution and this can vary a bit rider-to-rider based on riding style and physical attributes.   For me, the Whisper Plus is a balanced helmet on my head which means that it does not feel heavier in the tip of the tail and thus the weight feels centered on my head.  Because of this, I found the Catlike Whisper Plus to feel lighter at the end of a long ride than my staple Giro Atmos that I have worn the past two seasons.

Cooling: As seen on the heads of the Cervelo Test Team in the 2010 season, the Catlike Whisper Plus stands out because of its unique and aggressive ventilation shape.  This helmet has a lot of holes in it!   While I did not notice the helmet to be significantly cooler than my Giro, I did find that the ventilation and cooling to be more even across the entirety of my head.   This is partially because of the number, shape and distribution of the vents, but may also be contributed to the unique fit of the Catlike Whisper Plus, which provides deeper internal cooling channels than most helmets and better circulation.

Fit: A helmet that does not fit well is not worth too much regardless of what it costs.  A poor fitting helmet will not only be uncomfortable (thus making you not want to ride as much…) it may also not protect you as designed in impact.  Based on this, fit is “king” when it comes to helmet decisions and you should not compromise in this department.

The first thing I noticed when I put a Catlike Whisper Plus on was that even though the listed sizes are a bit smaller than what my Giro and Bell helmets say, the helmet actually fits bigger.  I wear a medium Giro and I was swimming in a medium Catlike.   I found a small and I was still slightly south of being in the middle of the adjustment range that the helmet offers.   Interestingly, riders with really large heads have found the large to not be big enough, so it is best to put one on your head before ordering or talk to someone with some experience that can help you compare the fit of your current lid to the Catlike.

The second thing that I noticed, once I had the correct size, is that the helmet feels completely different from any cycling helmet I had worn before.  Frankly, the helmet did not feel like what I had grown accustomed to and I would dare say I would not have bought one based on this initial alien feeling.  Thankfully, I spent a bit more time with the helmet.   Once I took a little time to adjust the helmet and think about the fit the more I liked it.   The helmet feels like it almost floats around the head, instead of sitting on the head, and it has a taller stance on the rider’s head.   To its credit, unlike my Giro helmets where I usually need to do a small Dremel grind in the front brow to avoid getting headaches, no modifications were needed.  I don’t usually test new equipment when going on a  trip, but I made an exception in this case and I took my new Catlike Whisper Plus and rode it between Christchurch and Queenstown in New Zealand for nine days straight out of the box.   I never had a headache or any helmet related issue on the trip and I’ll leave that for what it is – once adjusted, the helmet fits my oval shaped head well while people with rounder heads tend to find that few adjustments are needed out of the box for a good fit.

Safety: Thankfully, I did not directly test the safety capabilities of the Catlike Whisper Plus during my testing…   Every helmet sold in the U.S. meets the same safety U.S. safety standards.   The Catlike is a little bigger appearing than average, which may provide additional side protection, but I have no proof that this is a reality and I’ll leave it as an observation.  I can tell you that there are enough safety stickers inside the Catlike Whisper Plus to make it clear that safety is no accident at Catlike.   I actually found myself removing stickers as the only safety issue may be that all the safety and standards stickers inside the helmet can stick to your hair!

Style: The Catlike Whisper Plus has a style all its own and it is a little bit like a Porsche in that it has a timeless and functional style to it, but it may not be appeal to everyone.  I personally like its broad and muscular look.

Functionality/Design: The general strap layout in the Catlike Whisper Plus works pretty well and I like how easy it is to adjust where the rear retainer hits the back of your head by just sliding it up or down the straps.  It is notable that the chin strap latch is designed to latch to the side of your head and not directly under the chin.  A nicely padded and very easy to remove Velcro chin pad is included, but it only fits under the chin if the latch is moved to the side of the head.

The full length front forehead pad contacts the head further around the forehead than average and it can help divert sweat out and around the eyes better than average.  It did not completely stop water from getting behind my glasses on a wet day, but it helped keep salty sweat and rain out of my eyes better than other helmets I own.

I do have a couple nitpicks with the Catlike Whisper Plus and they involve the adjuster for the behind the head retainer and the small plastic adjusters the straps slide through on either side of the head.  In the case of the behind the head retainer, a bit like Giro’s pre 2011 helmets, the ratcheted adjuster can be a bit rough and can stick on itself.   Usually this is a one-time set adjustment, so it is not a big deal, but I had hoped for a better adjuster in a top of the line helmet like the Catlike Whisper Plus.  Likewise, the little locking clips on the side of the head are actually shaped well and direct the straps well, but they don’t lock as solidly as I expected, but they also never moved once latched.  None of these would keep me from buying this very functional and nice looking lid, but these are places I think that Catlike can improve.

Details: The Cateye Whisper Plus is available in three colors for $299 and includes a nice storage pod and replacement pads.  Stop in and try one on or give us a call.

Road Tubeless Clincher Tires
By Jim Weaver, Service Manager
Fit Werx, Vermont

Traditionally there have been two choices of wheel/tire combinations:  tubular or clincher.  Tubular tires and wheels provide superior ride quality and lighter weight than clincher wheels, however, tubulars were not as easy to mount or change as clinchers as they require glue (TUFO tape has helped).  For these reasons, many riders limit the use of their tubular tires and wheels to actual races and events and ride clinchers the rest of the time.  Other rides simply will not own a tubular.  Regardless, clincher tires come as standard equipment on almost all bicycles and they provide greater convenience, easy mounting, and easy flat repair compared to tubulars, but at the expense of ride quality and weight.  With Hutchinson’s introduction of road tubeless clincher tires a few years ago, riders now have a third option that bridges some of the benefits of tubular and clincher tire technology.  Tubeless tires offer ride quality superior to that of conventional clincher tires and tubes and approaching the smooth ride and grip offered by many good tubular tires.

There are several wheels on the market that are specifically designed for use with tubeless clincher tires.  However, the reality is that no special rim or wheel is required to use tubeless; the majority of standard clincher wheels can easily be adapted to tubeless.  Tubeless tires work especially well with any wheel that does not have spoke holes on the inside of the rim, such as Mavic’s Kysrium and R-SYS wheels, but they can be mounted on most regular clincher rims with spoke holes, with the use of Stan’s Rim Tape.  Hutchinson tubeless tires can also be ridden with tubes, which is handy if you do flat out on the road.  This means that with tubeless you get many of the ride quality benefits traditionally only associated with a high quality tubular tire, but you get the familiarity and convenience of a traditional clincher all in one.

As noted previously, one benefit of the Hutchinson tires is a substantial improvement in ride quality and comfort.  Much of this benefit is because tubeless road tires can usually be ridden at 15 to 20 pounds less tire pressure than conventional clincher tires, as you do not have to worry about pinch, or “snakebite” flats due to under inflation.   Lower tire pressure equals a smoother and more vibration damping ride.  While offering comfort benefits to virtually any rider, the ride quality benefits of tubeless road tires can be of particular benefit to the smaller rider on a stiff frame, or using stiff wheels.   Another benefit is that the tire uses a liquid sealant to air seal the bead of the tire and the rim, but it also coats the inside of the entire tire in the process.   This provides an added benefit as the sealant can instantly seal many small punctures you may get while riding, thus reducing the risk of a flat tire.

The weight of a Hutchinson’s Fusion3 Tubeless tire, when combined with the required valve stem insert, is 315 grams, within 10 grams of a Continental GP4000S and light tube.   For many riders, this very minor weight disadvantage is negligible compared to the superior ride quality and puncture resistance the tires provide.  Hutchinson also offers a lighter Atom model, but our experience has shown that the Atom does give up some puncture resistance in exchange for the small additional weight savings.

There are a few caveats to tubeless road tires worth mentioning.  Some rims require the removal of the tire to access spoke nipples for wheel truing.  Reynolds and HED Jet wheels are examples of this type of design.  Using the Hutchinson tires on such rims will make truing such a wheel a bit more difficult and messy task.  Also, manufacturers like Zipp recommend against installation of tubeless clincher tires on wheels like their new carbon clincher.   We are unsure why as tubeless clinchers use the same diameter and same general hook and bead concept as a clincher always have.  However, the installation of tubeless tires could void the manufacturer’s warranty for wheels that specifically say not to use them.  If in doubt, check with us.

Many of our athletes have praised the superior ride offered by tubeless tires.  Especially if you are looking for some relief from rough roads or chip seal, you should seriously consider switching to Hutchinson tubeless clincher tires.  Be sure to look at some of the other tubeless tire articles in the mechanical services area and Tech Center of our site for further information and to learn how to mount and maintain these tires.   Give us a call, email or stop-in if you have questions or are interested in a pair.

REVL, by the Hive, Brakeset
Reviewed by Jim Weaver
Service Manager, Fit Werx in Vermont

REVL brakes are manufactured by The Hive (www.bythehive.com), a relatively local company to us in Massachusetts.  These brakes feature full carbon calipers, with 7075 aluminum and titanium hardware.   The single pivot design saves weight, and The Hive says that the cam actuation gives dual pivot power.   It would take an engineering study to compare the exact power, but we can tell you that these brakes provide excellent stopping power with commensurate modulation and are a good alternative to benchmark calipers like Dura Ace.   The feel and power is as good, or better, than most other brakes on the market and are particularly better than other lightweight brakes that we have used.  An added bonus is that these brakes look great – refined and high tech.   The cam that operates the arms can be interchanged to set the gain at either 3:1 or 4:1.  The 3:1 ratio is suitable for previous generation Shimano (7800, 6600 or older) and all SRAM and Campagnolo brakes.   The 4:1 is appropriate for Shimano 7900 and 6700, but can be used with SRAM, Campagnolo, or other levers as well to provide greater stopping power, albeit with a bit squishier feel.   You specify the ratio when buying the brakes, but replacement cams are available if you want to change the ratio in the future.

Installation is easy and intuitive, being no more difficult or fussy than brakes from any of the mass manufacturers.  As these are carbon fiber calipers, with some titanium hardware, you should follow the manufacturer’s torque specifications.  If you are considering installing these brakes yourself, be sure to have a torque wrench with a 5mm Allen wrench socket, and have some ti anti-seize compound on hand for the titanium bolts.  Centering is accomplished simply with a 5mm Allen wrench inserted into the center pivot.  Instructions are clear, and torque specifications are easy to find.   It is also easy to replace the cam in order to change the ratio.

We weighed a set of the REVL brakes and the total weight for the pair was 235 grams.  This included brake pad holders and bolts, the included SwissStop brake pads, and the fork and frame inserts to attach the brakes to the bicycle.  By comparison, a set of Shimano 7900 Dura Ace brakes, with all hardware needed to installation, was 305 grams.  Comparison of these brakes to other lightweight brakeset is natural.  As with any advertised component weight, caution is needed to be sure that you are comparing apples to apples.  You will find lightweight brakes sets that advertise weights far less than 235 grams for the set.  However, the weight figures often do not include the brake pad holders, the brake pads, and the frame insert – all items that we prefer our brakes include…

Simply stated, whether you are seeking more power from your brakes or looking to reduce weight, you should seriously consider these brakes.  They work and look great.  At $390.00 for the set, these brakes are not inexpensive, but are in a very similar range to the top of the line offering from Shimano.    As The Hive says on their website, “Finally, a lightweight brake with some muscle. “  We could not agree more.

If you are interested in learning more or want a pair, give one of our locations a call or stop-in!

Rear Derailleur Adjustment Fundamentals

Adjusting the rear derailleur on a bicycle can be a daunting task.  However, armed with an understanding of what the primary adjustments control, basic derailleur adjustments are not as complicated as they seem.

Required Tools:

• Philips screwdriver #2 or 2.5mm hex (SRAM RED)
• 5mm Hex wrench

Overview - The two primary adjustments on a rear derailleur are stop screws and cable tension.   Once adjusted, unless a new wheelset is installed, you should not need to touch your stop screws again.  The stop screws determine how far the derailleur can travel in and out and if they are not adjusted correctly, the chain will over-shift into the wheel (low stop), jam between the frame and cassette (high stop) or not allow the chain to go into the biggest (low stop) or smallest cogs (high stop).  If this is your issue, proceed with the stop adjustments outlined in #1 and #2.  Keep in mind that the stop screws have nothing to do with shift quality between gears; if your bike is hesitating or noisy shifting between gears, skip to the cable tension adjustments in #3.

We’ll assume that a chain is already installed on the bike and that the rear wheel is elevated in a workstand (or on a stationary trainer) during the following adjustments.

1)  High Stop Adjustment - Many derailleurs have a “L” or “H” beside the stop screws to signify whether they control the high (smallest cog) or the low (biggest cog) gear stop.  The “H” stop limits how far the derailleur can travel to the outside of the frame.   Your goal is to have the “H” stop turned in as far as possible while still allowing the chain to smoothly and quietly engage the smallest cog.  Adjust the high stop as follows:

a)      Make sure the rear shift lever is fully released so that the derailleur can go into the highest gear (smallest cog).

b)      Once in the smallest cog, back the derailleur cable tension off by turning the cable’s barrel adjuster all the way in (or unbolt the cable altogether) so that the derailleur can naturally travel until it hits the stop without interference from cable tension.

c)      Shift the chain into the biggest chainring in the front and slowly turn the pedals.  From behind the bike, sight the relationship of the derailleur’s upper pulley to the smallest cog.  The pulley should line up directly under the smallest cog.  If it does not, turn the “H” stop screw clockwise to push the derailleur towards the center of the bike or counter-clockwise to allow it to travel further towards the outside of the bike.  The chain should stay in alignment with the pulley and cog and rotate smoothly without trying to skip into the next biggest cog or off towards the frame.

d)     If the chain tries to jump into the second cog without shift lever input, turn the “H” stop screw counterclockwise in 1/4 turn increments until it no longer does this.  If the chain tries to jump off the smallest cog (towards the frame) turn the “H” stop screw clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until it no longer does.

e)      Check the adjustment by rotating the crank and manually pushing the derailleur to shift the chain into a bigger cog and then releasing.  The chain should return to the smallest cog quickly and smoothly without over-shifting into the frame.

2)      Low Stop Adjustment - The low stop (“L”) works the same as the “H” stop, but in the opposite direction – it limits how far the derailleur travels towards the spokes in the wheel.   The goal is to adjust the “L” stop in as far as possible, so that the chain cannot travel beyond the largest cog (into the spokes), while still allowing the chain to engage the biggest (high) cog smoothly and consistently.   Adjust the low stop as follows:

(a)    While rotating the crank slowly with one hand, manually push the derailleur towards the inside of the bike/wheel with your other hand to shift the chain into the biggest cog.

(b)   If you can push the chain beyond the biggest cog (into the wheel) turn the “L” stop screw clockwise until it no longer allows for this, but don’t turn it in so far that it restricts the chain from shifting into the largest cog smoothly.  If you cannot push the chain into the biggest cog at all, turn the “L” stop counter-clockwise to allow the derailleur to move further towards the center of the bike.   Once you get this adjustment “in the ballpark”, work in 1/4 turn increments.

(c)    Check the adjustment.  The chain should go into the biggest cog quickly and smoothly without over shifting into the wheel or skipping.

3)      Cable Tension Adjustment - The vast majority of shifting issues are caused by cable tension and friction issues.   The good news is that rear derailleur cable tension adjustment operates on a simple rule – turn the barrel adjuster on the back of the rear derailleur in the direction the chain is not shifting smoothly.  If the derailleur is not engaging the bigger cogs well, turn it counter-clockwise.  If the derailleur is having trouble dropping into the smaller cogs turn the barrel clockwise.   The exception to this rule is the “rapid-rise” or “high normal” rear derailleurs found on some mountain bikes, which are opposite.  More detailed instructions on cable tension are as follows:

(a)    If the cable is currently affixed to the derailleur and just needs a minor adjustment, proceed to step d).   If installing a new cable, turn the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailleur one turn out from its fully bottomed (clockwise) position and make sure any other rear derailleur barrel adjusters located on the front of the bike are also turned in (clockwise) most of the way.

(b)   With the rear shift lever in the fully released position (chain in the highest gear/smallest cog), and paying attention to the particulars of your derailleur (cable routing varies between brands), use the 5mm Hex to affix the cable to the rear derailleur.  Pull the derailleur cable fairly taut, but not rigid.

(c)    If the cable or housing is new, firmly push on a section of exposed cable with your hand to stretch the cable and seat all housing and ferules in their stops.  If the cable is internally routed, push on the shifter (without pedaling) to stretch and pull the cable firmly against the housing and stops.   If the cable becomes slack, repeat step b) before proceeding.

(d)   With the drivetrain in the big chainring/small cog combination, manually pedal the bicycle and click the shifter into the next biggest cog.  If the chain hesitates to move or is sluggish, turn the barrel adjuster on the rear of the derailleur counterclockwise to add tension to the cable and allow the cable to pull the derailleur further with each click of the shift lever.  If the chain tries to over-shift or skip to the third cog, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise to reduce tension on the cable and thus reduce the amount of derailleur motion with each shift.

(e)    Shift back into the smallest cog and adjust the barrel adjuster in 1/4 turn increments until the shift is smooth.

(f)    Test the shifting in the remaining gears and adjust tension as needed.

That’s it!  If you understand how adding or subtracting cable tension affects shifting, you can fix the vast majority of shifting issues on your bike.

If your bike is still not shifting well, you either need a “B Tension” adjustment (beyond the scope of this article), your derailleur hanger is out of alignment (see a shop to replace or realign the hanger) or a drivetrain component is worn and needs replacement.   Keeping your cables and drivetrain clean and well-lubricated goes a long way towards improving shift quality and minimizing wear, so be sure to stay on top of these items.

HAWK RACING BOTTOM BRACKETS
By Jim Weaver
Service Manager, Fit Werx, Vermont

Sometimes the best products show up out of the blue and from previously unknown sources –  all it takes is someone to realize that something can be done better.   Sven Folmer of Hawk Racing did just that when he realized that many of the stock bottom brackets from Shimano, SRAM and FSA left a fair amount to be desired.  He also realized that ceramic bearings are not always better and he went to work on designing a better bottom bracket with the following goals:

• Improve performance.  Stock bottom brackets from the “big three” are “watt suckers”.
• Don’t compromise durability or increase service/maintenance intervals.
• Keep the price reasonable.

Sven succeeded on all three counts.   We began using the Hawk Racing bottom brackets in 2009, as an alternative to the stock bottom brackets from Shimano or SRAM.  Hawk Racing bottom brackets are available for external BC1.37 X 24 compatible bottom brackets as well as BB30 and other press fit applications.  They are available in versions that work with Shimano cranks, some FSA cranks (non “Light”), SRAM cranks, and many others, but not Campagnolo or Zipp.  Hawk Racing bottom brackets use high grade Japanese made steel bearings and races and they work much better than stock bottom brackets while meeting or exceeding the performance of ceramic units that cost over double.  They do all this and have proven to require little to no maintenance as well.

Hawk Racing bottom brackets offer far less mechanical resistance/friction than standard steel bearing  equipped bottom brackets and are a significant improvement on any Shimano bottom bracket, including Dura Ace.  The lack of friction rivals high quality ceramic bearing bottom brackets, at a significantly lower cost.  They are maintenance free, so you do not need to periodically lubricate the bearings as with many ceramic BB’s.  Installation is the same as standard bottom brackets from Shimano or SRAM, using the same installation tool, and weight is compatible with other standard bottom brackets.  Some may think that the free spinning is achieved by reducing or eliminating weather seals.  According to Hawk Racing, this is not the case and our experience supports this; we have yet to see any problems and have installed close to 100 units.  We have seen no reason to question the durability of these bearings and they are arguably the best balance of performance and low maintenance available.

Hawk Racing says that it takes 80% less energy to spin these bearings than other bottom brackets.  While we have not verified this figure, if you compare the Hawk Racing BB with a Shimano Dura Ace, one might think that this is a conservative number.  These bottom brackets spin easier than just about anything on the market, high quality ceramic BB’s included.  Since there is significantly less bearing drag to overcome, more of your power will be transmitted to the rear wheel and more watts going to the wheel is always a winning situation for the rider.

The Hawk Racing bottom bracket is a quick, relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade to your bicycle, and one that we routinely recommend to clients when servicing their bicycles or as a great upgrade when they are getting a new bike.  Once you see the difference in how your crank spins with these bottom brackets and knowing that it does not require any continuing maintenance, the Hawk Racing bottom bracket is a no-brainer, particularly at this price.  The Hawk Racing bottom bracket sells for $110-$130 (depending on model), and comes with a 2 year warranty.

Q)  It seems like the in-the-drops shifting position of SRAM shifters can’t be beat due to the flexibility of the shifter itself.  For crit racing, this is obviously a huge advantage and I’ve been thinking about trying to ditch my Shimano equipment for a SRAM group.  Plus,  you can’t beat the price point on SRAM stuff.  Two things I wonder.  One:  how does SRAM keep the price point so low?  Is the stuff sub par?  Two:  The double-tap mechanism seems like it might be prone to breakage because, compared to Shimano STI levers especially, it seems like a  fragile piece of equipment.  Can you speak to the long-term reliability of SRAM shifters across all the groups?  Is any level of component more durable than any other?  Thanks!  ~Ian P.

A)  Hi Ian,    SRAM’s “Make the Leap” campaign vied for shift superiority with Campagnolo and Shimano.  The slogan simultaneously reminded people that the company got started with shifting innovation with Grip Shift while also ushering in SRAM’s latest shifting innovation – Double Tap technology.  The “other” leap associated with Double Tap describes the internal mechanism of the racheting pawl which “leaps” over a rotating spool when the cable is actuated.

With SRAM shifter internals, less is more; the simplicity, lightweight and relatively low cost of the SRAM shift levers is the best in the business.   At this point, it is impossible to deny SRAM’s presence in the racing world, both road and cyclocross, for providing Tour and World Cup-proven equipment through efficient design.  SRAM’s entry level Apex group all the way through the top of the line Red fundamentally have the same technology and internal design.   As you ascend the SRAM ladder, carbon, magnesium, and titanium are introduced to lighten things up both weight-wise and in terms of shift action, bearing quality improves (Red uses ceramic bearings) and innovative, but more expensive, manufacturing techniques are introduced.  All models, regardless of price, employ SRAM’s Double Tap Technology and Zero Loss Technology.    The Red level Double Tap shifter,  however, stands alone as Zero Loss is not only applied to the front shifter, but the rear as well.   Red thus provides the shortest lever throw of any of the SRAM options and quite possibly of any lever on the market.   Zero Loss is accomplished by altering the pawl geometry in the shifter, pushing the shift paddle immediately actuates the cable and there is no initial angle of engagement for the paddle.   All other SRAM models (Apex, Rival and Force) have Zero Loss applied only to the left shifter.

A few more things to consider:

- SRAM levers, like Campagnolo levers, can be rebuilt, and they are much easier to rebuild than Campy ones too. Durability-wise, they are usually excellent as well, due to the simplicity of the internals.   While Shimano’s design has demonstrated that it works well, it is also quite complicated; an exploded view of a current Shimano lever indicates that Shimano designed their levers as a veritable “black box” – with almost triple the number of parts compared to SRAM, STI levers are quite complicated and not very serviceable.   With SRAM, crashing aside, it would be safe to bet that the durability of the shift and braking action across all SRAM groups would be relatively equal, but that the harder, lighter and more precise materials found at the Force and Red level do offer advantages in shift quality and precision.

- SRAM builds the lightest complete groups on the planet.  SRAM Red weighs well over 100 grams less than Shimano’s Dura Ace – most of this is in the shifter mechanism.

- All levels of SRAM shift/brake levers offer a four position adjustable lever reach to accommodate for a wide range of hand sizes.   Small hand riders rejoice!

- While SRAM does not offer a triple group, there 1:1 shift actuation ratio is the same as on their mountain bike groups and you can mix and match mountain bike rear derailleurs and gearing with road shifters for incredibly wide gearing ranges.   SRAM Red with a XO rear derailleur and cogset is the super sweet lightweight hillclimb setup and Apex offers similar gearing ranges at very budget friendly levels, but is notably heavier.

While we don’t tend to play favorites on components, we have been impressed with SRAM’s innovation, quality and pricing.  They certainly offer very valid competition to Campagnolo and Shimano and actually have “upped the ante” in more than one department.

Thank you for the inquiry and ride fast.

Q)   I have a question about the rear derailleur on my road bike.  It is an Ultegra 6600 that has a squeak in it as you pedal.  It appears to be the lower pulley wheel.  I have replaced the lower pulley once and it solved the problem for a while – less than a season.   However, the squeak is now back!  Your comments are welcome…   -Allen

A)  Hi Allen,    The dreaded derailleur squeak!  If your derailleur pulleys are squeaking, a light lube such as Tri-flow, Finish Line Teflon or Boeing T9 can do the trick. Simply drip some lube in the center spacer/bushing area and that should quiet it right down. If not, we would disassemble the rear derailleur cage and pull the pulleys off for closer inspection of the bushings in the pulleys. Also check the rear hub. If the rear hub has rubber seals on the exterior of the hub that contact the hub body, they can sometimes squeak.

We have also been offering an upgrade from the basic pulleys found on the Ultegra rear derailleurs to the stainless steel, sealed cartridge bearings made by Hawk Racing or FSA’s ceramic pulleys.   In the case of the Hawk Racing units, the wheels themselves are made of lightweight aluminum for even more durability.   A new set of Ultegra pulleys will run $30 while the Hawk upgrades run at $69 for a set and the FSA ceramics are in the $130 range.   Thank you for the question and go fast.

’11 Cervelo R Series Bikes – What is New

Overview: For the first time in five years, Cervelo revamped their R series offerings significantly in 2011. The R5 (which replaces the R3 SL) and the R3 utilize redesigned framesets, incorporating  technology and design from the limited production R5ca, while the RS has been given a new component package and a notably lower price.

R5

Cervelo R5 and R3

For 2011, the R5 and R3 show three areas of notable change and improvement:

1.  Tapered Fork/Headtube:

The R5 and R3 now have headtubes that incorporate 1-1/8th inch upper bearings and  1-3/8th inch lower bearings and use a new fork design with a tapered steerer tube. The oversized lower bearing  enhances the front end stiffness of the bike and improves handling. Cervelo even experimented with an 1-1/2 inch lower bearing to maximize stiffness, but felt it made the front end too stiff and did not provide the optimal ride qualities they were after.

2. New Geometry:

One thing that did not change for 2011 is that Cervelo, thankfully, stayed true to their 73 degree seat tube angle across the full range of sizes with the new geometry. Cervelo remains the only company in the industry doing this and it really makes the reach dimensions on their frames make sense and eliminates the sizing overlap between sizes within a model that plagues many brands.

So, what did change?  The R5 and R3 have updated versions of Cervelo’s reach-based geometry, these updates are designed to fit a wider range of athletes and we believe that Cervelo has succeeded in this intent. Compared to the previous generation R3, the headtube is slightly longer in most sizes; depending on the frame size, headtube lengths have increased from 8mm in the smaller sizes to a full 25mm of additional length in the largest size (61cm).   With the exception of the RS, Cervelo’s R series of bike have always been limited by the fact that they were very low. This change in headtube length allows for a handlebar position that is more reasonable for a wider range of riders to be safely achieved without compromising the ability to set-up significant drop for those riders whose position allows. The net result of this change is that versatility in fit is markedly improved and thus the new R bikes are going to fit more riders well.

The other geometry adjustment for 2011 Cervelo R3 and R5 bikes is a change in headtube angle for the smaller size frames.   In order to minimize toe overlap on smaller sized bikes, without compromising handling characteristics, Cervelo figured out size specific headtube angle, fork rake and chainstay lengths.  A nice “detail” that has trickled down from custom bike makers to more production bikes lately.

3.  BBright™ bottom bracket/frame shape:

From a technology standpoint, Cervelo’s BBright may be the most significant change to the R series bikes. BBright™ was designed to be the lightest and stiffest system incorporating the newer press-fit style bottom bracket concept. This system is found on the Rca, R5, and R3.

You may be asking yourself,  “Do we really need another bottom bracket standard?”. The short answer is, “No, we do not need another bottom bracket standard.”. The longer answer is that Cervelo’s BBright™  is not so much a bottom bracket standard as it is a new approach to lower triangle frame design.   BBright™  isn’t just designed to improve the crank interface, but is designed to allow for ride and stiffness improvements throughout the drivetrain and rear triangle.  Most developments in bottom bracket design have come from a desire to improve that specific component, but the folks at Cervelo determined that to really optimize the performance of the bottom bracket area, the frame must be taken into consideration as well.

BBright™ is the only bottom bracket standard that allows an oversized bottom bracket axle (30mm diameter) and oversized chainstays, seat and down tubes (11mm wider).  This combination of dimensions offers excellent structural efficiency of the crank and frame system without limiting component selection options in the process.

Here is how it works:

Because the drivetrain takes up extra mechanical space and puts limitations on the right side of the bike at the drivetrain, extra room has always been found on the left side of the bike.  Previously, no one had ever done much with this extra space, it was considered a price that had to be paid for crank symmetry. Cervelo realized that the extra space was actually an opportunity to widen the bearing stance and increase lateral and torsional rigidity in the drivetrain.  BBright™ places the left side bearing 11 mm further from the center of the frame and this allows the frame members to grow on the non-driveside of the bike.  The result is an improvement in lateral stiffness and drivetrain response.

The image on the left shows typical tube sizes possible with a standard 68mm BB. The image on the right shows frame tubes 11mm wider in this area. Wider frame tubes increase the mechanical properties of the frame laterally, increasing stiffness and decreasing weight.

The new BBright™ system has been developed to improve the structural efficiency of the frame/bottom bracket/crank system and the concept behind it is sound as bigger is usually more rigid.

For 2011, the RS returns utilizing the same race-proven plush riding frameset as 2010, but with a new component specification and a significantly lower price!  The RS frame features slightly taller headtubes and chainstays  than the rest of the R series bikes and provides  a versatile geometry that fits a wide range of riding positions well while offering all of the performance you would expect from a Cervelo.  The RS in 2010 was Ultegra equipped and ran $3600, but for 2011 the frame stays the same and the spec goes to SRAM’s very solid Rival group and the price came down a huge $1000 to just $2600 (before Fit Werx’ fitting credits!). The new lower price for 2011 makes the RS an unprecedented value for a bike that has won some of the most demanding races in the world and has been almost universally praised for its ride and fit.

If you have questions on Cervelo bikes or any other product we carry, please just call of email.  Remember, if you have been fit at Fit Werx before, we keep your information on file and can use it at anytime to find out whether a new Cervelo R series bike is a good match for you!

Q)  This could be very abstract sounding, but is it preferable for a rider between sizes to select the smaller size  with a longer stem, or a larger size frame with a shorter stem?  Is power lost in the smaller frame that is otherwise better distributed or better applied in the larger frame? – Christopher

A) Hi Christopher,

Your question is very common because it is one that many riders have felt they must face.  I think your question is common for two primary reasons. First, compact frame geometries and sloping top tubes have laterally stiffened frames over their non-sloping, traditional predecessors.  In a nutshell, all else being equal, a smaller frame with “tighter triangles” and shorter tubes are actually stiffer than a bigger frame and thus can transfer power more directly.    Second, and probably most significant, not all bicycle dealers promote a fit first philosophy and the sizing of a bike becomes more abstract and less data-driven when there is not a proven protocol that corresponds to the selection process.   Without a rider first fit philosophy, the bike’s needs will often be dictating your power and comfort instead of your needs determining how the bike can help you achieve your potential. Without a proven process to determine riding position first, left to choose on non-fit related variables, smaller often “sounds” better to many performance oriented riders.

This all being said, there is no reason to guess on this.    A “fit first” approach to frame sizing yields greater accuracy in position and also will help clarify what frame size makes the most sense by showing how the rider’s position relates to the frame geometry before you buy.   For example, I’ve seen some riders who swear by sizing down a frame and running really long stems,  130mm and greater, always assuming that sizing down is the right approach.   However, sizing down can have some significant compromises for some riders.   On a X / Y plane, the horizontal X coordinate is often achieved at the expense of the Y coordinate: sizing bigger or smaller not only changes effective top tube length (a factor of X) but it also changes headtube height (a factor of Y).   In this scenario, unless you make the decision to run an excess of spacers under your stem (potentially compromising handling and stability in the process), the smaller bike may yield a lower than ideal position in order to properly adjust your Y coordinate.

A properly fit frame will be as close to the your ideal X and Y coordinates as possible while still being well within the normal set-up parameters the engineer who designed the frame was considering.    A proper bike fit eliminates the guesswork in this regard.  A qualified bike fitter has at their disposal the tools and data (geometry templates, motion capture, power data, physiology, kinesiology, interpersonal skills, etc.) to find that X / Y and commensurately and locate the best alchemical compromise between power and positioning.

So, in short, more power is almost always ideal, but how long it can be maintained in a certain position, and how comfortable that position is, is what really matters for most riders.   Neither a smaller or bigger frame is better for everyone and generalizations in frame sizing are almost always risky.  If your riding position is established first the best decision for you will likely become much more clear.   Consider bike fit the holy trinity of comfort, power, and efficiency.  A proper bike fit looks at the balance between these many variables and a professional bike fitter is your good shepherd to help you find that balance.

Thank you for your question and check out this link for further reading:

http://www.fitwerx.com/stack-and-reach

Go fast.

ROAD TUBELESS CLINCHER TIRE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

The following guidelines are for maintaining tubeless road tires – more complete explanations are below.

1.  Inflation pressure on a tubeless road system is often between 10 and 15 pounds less than a conventional clincher tire.

2.  Check tire pressure before each ride and check the snugness of the valve core periodically.

3.  Keep tires inflated, preventing them from going flat during long-term storage.  Spin the tires periodically during long-term storage.

4.  If you use a plastic tire lever with a tubeless tire, use caution not to damage the carbon tire bead.

5.  If the tire will not hold air, remove tire, clean the wheel rim and tire bead, and reinstall the tire with new sealant.  Keeping a small amount of tire sealant on hand for this situation is recommended.

6.  Carry a spare tube, plastic tire levers, and quick-fill style CO² inflator, to repair any flat tire you may have while riding.  Remove the valve stem, install a tube, and reinstall the tire as you normally would with a standard clincher tire.

_____________________________________________________________

1.  Tubeless clincher tires do not require as high a level of inflation pressure as conventional clincher tires.  With a conventional clincher, high inflation pressure, often as high as 120 psi, is necessary to guard against “pinch” or “snakebite” flats.  High inflation pressure results in a harsher ride as the tire is firmer and thus cannot absorb road shock as well.  Since a tubeless tire has no tube, there is no risk of a pinch flat and lower tire pressure, resulting in an improvement in ride quality, is thus possible.  Generally, the appropriate pressure in a tubeless road tire will be 10-15 pounds less than a conventional clincher.  If in doubt, follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.   If you want to experiment with how low you can go, lower your tire pressure in 5 psi increments until the tire loses its seal and “burps” air out the side during riding.

2.  Air leaks out of any tire, whether a tube is used or not.  While some tubeless clincher tire/rim combinations actually hold air better than a standard tube, many lose air pressure faster than a conventional tube tire.  You should check your tire pressure before each ride regardless of whether you run tubes or tubeless.  The internal valve cores on some tubeless valve stems are prone to loosening.  Using a core remover (or a small adjustable wrench), check the tightness of the valve core periodically in the valve stem.  Chronically loosening valve cores can be removed, the threads wrapped in Teflon tape, and then reinstalled to lock in place.

3.  If the bicycle is stored for an extended period, check the tire pressure every few weeks and inflate the tire to your usual riding tire pressure as needed.  This will help keep the seal intact between the carbon tire bead and the rim.  Also, it is a good idea to spin the wheel periodically so as to keep the sealant distributed evenly around the tire.   If the tire deflates, the seal between the tire bead and rim can be lost.  If this happens, you may be able to simply reinflate the tire, resealing the bead to the rim simultaneously.  However, if the seal has been lost, the tire will not inflate until the seal is reestablished.  Simply adding more sealant may solve this problem, if not, the tire will need to be removed from the rim, the sealant along the tire bead and rim cleaned off, and the tire remounted.  Inflating the tire from zero pressure is sometimes possible by pumping a floor pump very rapidly until the seal engages, but is easier and more reliable with a quicker high pressure inflator such as an air compressor or a CO² inflator.  The simple rule is that you can avoid losing the seal by keeping the air pressure above 40 psi in your tubeless tires all the time.

4.  Tubeless tires use a unique triangular shaped carbon bead that seals the tire against the rim.  When removing or installing, it is important to use care with tire levers as damage to the bead can prevent it from sealing correctly against the rim.  If possible, install tubeless tires by hand and, if a lever is needed, use only plastic tire levers.

5.  Eventually, the sealant in the tire will dry out, the seal with the rim will be compromised, and the tire will no longer hold air.  There is no definite time interval for this, but you can expect this to happen every 1 to 2 years.  If this happens (assuming the tire is not worn out yet), you will need to remove the tire and valve stem, clean off the sealant from the stem and tire bead, and then remount with fresh sealant, usually about 1 oz is adequate in a 700×23 road tire.  It is advisable to keep a bottle of Stan’s Tire Sealant (or other brand) on hand, to refresh your sealant if it is ever needed.

6.  You can get a puncture or cut in the tire that is too large for the tire sealant to seal.  Therefore, you should carry a spare tube, plastic tire irons, and an inflator on every ride.  If you get a flat that will not seal, simply remove the valve stem and install your spare tube in the tire, just like a standard clincher repair.  The tubeless clincher tire can be ridden with a tube without any difficulty, but you will lose the ride quality benefits of this tire and add some weight.  If you do use a tube in the tire, be sure to inflate the tire to a higher pressure than you may use without the tube in order to avoid pinch flats.  Keep the tubeless valve stem as it can be reused.