A version of this article was originally
published in Triathlete Magazine

Ian,

I read an earlier Tech Support article (September 2006) comparing dimensions and fit on an Elite and Cervélo. This was helpful, but made me think a bit more about some of the other dimensions listed in frame geometry charts. I keep seeing “Bottom Bracket Drop” and “Fork Offset” listed. I understand where these dimensions are taken on a frame, but how do they relate to the fit and ride of the bike?

Jim, via the internet

Dear Jim,

If you like numbers and how things relate, you will probably like this article. If you do not, get the aspirin out now – this might give you a headache.

While the fundamentals of how a bike fits are found in seat tube angle, top tube length and head tube height as discussed in the September article, the details of fit and ride are found in dimensions like bottom bracket drop and fork offset.

Bottom Bracket Drop: This dimension is the height difference between the center of the bottom bracket/crank and the center of the dropouts (where the wheel’s axle connects to the frame/fork). Some manufacturers replace the drop dimension with “Bottom Bracket Rise”, which conversely measures from the ground to the center of the bottom bracket. Both dimensions refer to the same thing in regards to fit and handling.

The aforementioned Elite and Cervélo models serve as excellent examples of the spectrum currently offered in the market in regards to bottom bracket placement. Cervélo’s 700c aero bikes have 6cm of bottom bracket drop (28cm of rise), while many of Elite’s tri bikes have 8cm of drop (26cm of rise). 2cm is a lot of difference in frame geometry and here is what it affects:

1) Effective head tube length – Effective head tube length matters because it determines how high or low a handlebar can safely be placed on a bike. Because the rider is lower in relation to the top of the headset’s upper steering bearings, a frame with a lower bottom bracket height will have a taller effective head tube length than a bike with a higher bottom bracket. From a fitting perspective, this means that with a given head tube height and style (integrated or non-integrated), a frame with 8cm of bottom bracket drop allows for up to 2cm more handlebar height than a frame with 6cm of drop. Likewise, a frame with 6cm of drop allows for up to 2cm lower handlebar height than a 8cm drop frame.

2) Handling and stability – Bottom bracket drop is one variable among many that impacts a frame’s handling and stability characteristics. This being said, in general, bikes with taller bottom brackets have a higher center of gravity, more ground clearance and tend to be more reactive/sensitive to rider input; bikes with lower bottom brackets have a lower center of gravity and tend to be on the more stable and predictable side.

Fork Offset: Also known as “Rake”, fork offset has to be considered in conjunction with the head tube angle of the bike for its implications to be understood.

Head Tube Angle + Fork Offset = Trail. Trail is a significant contributor to how a bike handles while also having some fitting implications. Fork offset is the distance from the center of the front wheel axle directly back to the center of the bike’s steering axis (invisible line tracing the frame’s head tube angle to the ground). Currently, on most aero forks, this means an offset (rake) between 40mm and 45mm.

“Trail” is a relationship between head tube angle and fork offset and is determined by plotting a line straight down the fork’s steering axis (head tube angle) to the ground and plotting another line straight down to the ground from the center of the front axle. Trail is the distance between where these two lines contact the ground.

So, what does trail affect? In general, bikes with more trail have greater castor effect, meaning the wheel tends to self-center more readily and thus the bike feels more stable, while bikes with less trail tend to steer quicker, but can also require more rider input to keep them going in a straight line. While some manufacturers tend to keep trail consistent between frame sizes, others vary trail size-to-size. Because of this, and the fact that there are many variables beyond trail involved in handling, it is difficult to recommend an average trail number. This being said, for an average sized rider looking for an aero bike that self-centers predictably and offers reasonably quick steering, between 6.2cm and 6.5cm of trail are usually reliable dimensions.

A strong argument can be made that aero forks would benefit from having more fork offset options than what is currently available and that in conjunction many aero frames would benefit from slacker head tube angles. As a frame’s head tube angle becomes more slack, a fork needs more offset in order to maintain the same trail dimension. A frame with a 73 degree head tube angle and 40mm offset fork and a frame with a 71 degree head tube angle and a 52mm offset fork have the exact same 6.21cm of trail. However, what differs is that the 71 degree/52mm combination will have a front-to-center (front wheel axle to center of bottom bracket) and wheelbase measurement over 3cm longer than the 73 degree/40mm rake combination. Three centimeters is a huge number in bike dimensions. In many cases, especially with a properly fit triathlon bike, the additional front-to-center length of the slacker head angle and greater fork rake counteracts the additional weight on the front of the bike and can help make the bike more stable and predictable.

To further add credence to the argument above, from a fitting perspective, forks with greater offset and frames with slacker head tube angles offer more toe clearance between the rider’s foot and the tire during sharp cornering at lower speeds. Especially with 700c wheels, this is a notable benefit as many riders do experience toe overlap on small to medium sized stock frames.

While top tube length, seat tube angle and head tube angle are the most important dimensions on a frame when it comes to fit, dimensions like bottom bracket drop and fork offset not only affect fit, but also handling as well. While hyper analyzing each detail of a frame’s dimensions may not be required, it does pay to know what matters in regards to your body and riding position and that is where a knowledgeable bike fitter or technician can be of great value.

Train hard and train smart!

Ian

Originally published December 2006/Copyright © 2006

A version of this article was originally
published in Triathlete Magazine

I’ve been told that I am a Medium Elite T-Class or a 54cm Cervélo, but I don’t know what frame dimensions I should be paying attention to and how they affect the bike fit. I’m 5’10” with a 31” inseam. Thanks in advance for the help.

Dennis, via the internet

Dear Dennis,

Before discussing the geometry of the bikes in question, let’s focus on bike fit as your riding position should determine your frame geometry and not the other way around.

Fitting and Fitters: While most runners would not buy shoes without knowing how they fit, one of the most common mistakes many athletes make when choosing a new bike is this very thing. They choose the bike based upon what they read, the way it looks, or what their friends say before taking into account how the bike fits their individual needs. This forces the rider to try to adapt to the bike, when, if you want to perform to your potential, your bike should adapt to your needs. The most reliable way to find a bike that fits you well is to be professionally fit first and then use this information to help you find the best frame/bike matches.

While claims of “expert fitters” abound, the reality is that fit quality can vary immensely from fitter to fitter and you owe it to yourself to be very selective. Be sure to interview your fitter, make sure they have a firm understanding of triathlon, aero positioning and biomechanics, and do not be afraid to travel to get the job done right. You get what you pay for and a comprehensive fitting should take a few hours. Your fitter should inspire confidence with their knowledge and fitting protocols. If a fitting is below your expectations or incomplete, do not hesitate to try other fitters until you find what you are looking for.

How does the fit on a Cervélo P3 Carbon and an Elite T-Class compare?

Despite what some Web sites claim, bikes cannot be consistently sized by body height, inseam length or other measurements. Without understanding your riding position and technique better, I cannot tell you what size frame you should ride or whether a given frame will fit you well. This being said, I can tell you what to look for in a well fit frame and how that relates to your riding position.

From a positioning perspective, there are three interrelated dimensions on a frame that you should be aware of:

#1 and #2) Seat Tube Angle and Top Tube Length have to be considered together. Seat tube angle plays a role in determining where your seat can be placed while top tube length directly impacts the reach from the saddle to the handlebars on the bike. While a saddle can often be slid fore or aft on its rails to achieve a different seat angle, remember that doing so directly impact the effective top tube length/reach of the bike. Pushing a saddle forward from the initial seat tube angle shortens the reach (effectively reducing top tube length), while pushing it back lengthens the reach. When considering any frame, make sure that your reach at your ideal seat position can be achieved with a properly sized aerobar and a realistic length stem (while there are exceptions, 9cm to 11cm is a common range on a triathlon bike for most average size riders).

One degree of change in seat angle results in about 1cm of effective top tube length/reach change. So, while a Medium Elite T-Class and 54cm Cervélo P3 Carbon both have 53cm top tubes, because the Elite is based on a 76.5 degree seat angle and the Cervélo is based on 78 degrees, at a given seat position, the P3 Carbon effectively has about 1.5cm more reach than the T-Class – making it fit effectively a full size longer than the Elite.

#3) Head Tube Length determines how high or low a handlebar can be positioned, thus it is very important to positioning. However, head tube length is arguably the most ignored fit dimension on the bike; some manufacturers did not even list the dimension as recently as a year ago. If your head tube is too long, you will not be able to get your handlebar low enough. If your head tube length is too short for your ideal riding position, you will not be able to position your handlebar high enough without exceeding the fork manufacturer’s safety specifications for headset spacers and/or using a very high rise stem. This can create torsional flex and potential instability in the front of the bike and can jeopardize the fork’s strength. Ideally, you want a head tube length that allows adjustment room up or down and that is compatible with the aerobars you plan to use, all of which fit differently.

While the 54cm P3 Carbon’s head tube length of 10.5cm and the Medium T-Class at 11cm initially appear very close, the dimensions on their own are misleading. Cervélo uses internal headset bearings that are built into the frame while Elite uses external bearings that are pressed into and extend beyond the frame. External bearings extend the effective head tube length by 2-3cm above the measured length, thus the Elite’s handlebars can safely go 2.5cm-3.5cm taller than the Cervélo – a big difference in how the two models fit and sometimes the difference between one fitting well and the other not. As with top tube length and seat tube angle, you must know how long a head tube you need in integrated and non-integrated designs if you want to know if a frame fits you well.

While many of the dimensions on the T-Class and P3 Carbon initially appear similar, the reality is that these two frames fit quite different. The rider that fits well on one may not fit so well on the other. To eliminate the guesswork, get professionally fit first and allow that information to help you explore how each frame really fits you. If you find that neither works well, remember there are custom builders out there (including Elite, Guru and Serotta) that can build you a compromise free custom tri bike that matches your riding position and needs ideally.

Train hard and train smart!

Ian

Originally published September 2006/Copyright © 2006

A version of this article was originally
published in Triathlete Magazine

After speaking to a number of people, I’m still confused about what really matters in regards to bikes and speed. Most commonly, I’ve been told that aerodynamics should be by far the most important thing to me and that I need to make sure that I get the most aerodynamic bike possible. However, I’ve read elsewhere that weight and stiffness are really important too. What is the real story?

Ted , WI

Dear Ted,

There are a number of concepts that relate to your equipment and performance. Some of these concepts are quantifiable (like aerodynamics and weight), while others are less tangible (like the handling and mechanical condition of your equipment). I’ve provided brief explanations of the most influential variables (based upon estimations from studies within the cycling industry) and categorized these variables by approximately how much rider energy they consume on a flat course without wind. For example, if you burn 1000 calories during a ride, a variable rated at 15% of energy consumption would use 150 of those calories.

First, the tangible concepts:

Aerodynamics: Rider aerodynamics is approximately 50% of total energy consumption and the aerodynamics of your equipment is approximately 15% of total energy consumption.

How aerodynamics relates to you and your bike is often one of the most simplified and misunderstood subjects in cycling and triathlon. Wind resistance is usually the largest obstacle a rider has to overcome. However, many people tend to approach aerodynamics backwards by trying to maximize the aerodynamics of their equipment without addressing the aerodynamics of their riding position.

If you compare your surface area to that of your bike, it is easy to see how you have a much greater impact on overall aerodynamics than your 20 lbs. bike. The aerodynamics of your body is about 3/4 of the total aerodynamics equation, while your equipment is the remaining quarter. Therefore, working with a qualified fitter to develop an optimal aero riding position that is within your body’s individual capabilities should be job one before focusing on the aerodynamics of the bike itself. The most aerodynamic equipment available will help very little if you, the rider, are not able to remain aerodynamic while using it.

An “ideal aero position” does not simply mean that you must have as low a riding position as possible. It means that you must have as aerodynamic a riding position as possible that is within your biomechanical capabilities and that you can maintain for as long as possible without compromising comfort or power. Trading power production and comfort for aerodynamics is rarely a good trade and an aerodynamic riding position is only effective when you are able to maintain it.

When it comes to the aerodynamics of your equipment, wheels and the components at the front of the bike (fork, bars, cable routing, helmet…) are the most influential. While ideally shaped aero frame tubing can make a small aerodynamic difference (estimated at 2-4% of total energy consumption), aero tubing often does not ride as comfortably and is not as torsionally stiff as high quality round tubing. If it comes down to a choice between a frame that helps you as a rider be more aerodynamic by maximizing your comfort and power in an aero position or a frame that is more aerodynamic on its own, but not as comfortable, the frame that helps you maximize how long you can stay in your aero position (comfort) is almost always going to help you ride faster.

Click here for more detailed information on aerodynamics in cycling.

Bicycle Stiffness: Approximately 15% of total energy consumption.

The stiffness of your frame and components relates to how efficiently and directly power from your body is transmitted to the road. In general, as a frame gets stiffer and more responsive side-to-side it also becomes vertically stiffer, thus transmitting more road shock to the rider. If a bike is too stiff for the rider, it can be uncomfortable and this will compromise the rider’s ability to remain aerodynamic and fresh throughout the ride. This being said, modern material technology and design has helped bridge the gap between torsional frame and component stiffness (responsiveness and power transmission) and vertical compliance (comfort and vibration damping). As the quality of a frame or component’s materials and design increases, it will be more likely to enhance torsional stiffness, while simultaneously enhancing comfort and compliance. The best frames in this regard tend to be handcrafted frames built with tubing that is individually selected to match the rider’s weight and ride quality requirements.

Click here for more detailed information on lateral stiffness and power transfer in cycling.

Rolling Resistance: Approximately 10% of total energy consumption.

Rolling resistance is the amount of friction between your tires and the road surface. In general, the more vertically compliant and vibration damp a product tends to be, the less rolling resistance it will tend to have and the less energy it will consume. Tire, wheel and frame designs impact rolling resistance the most.

Click here for more detailed information on rolling resistance in cycling.

Bicycle Weight: Approximately 10% of total energy consumption.

Like aerodynamics, bicycle weight is often an exaggerated and misunderstood concept. While you want a reasonably light bike, small weight differences between bikes are going to have negligible effects at best on most courses. Keep in mind that a 160 lbs rider on an 18 lbs bike has a gross vehicle weight of 178 lbs and the same rider on a 16 lbs bike weighs 176 lbs – not even a 1% difference.

Weight plays its largest role when it comes to acceleration, which is why it is a more influential variable when climbing than on the flats. Because rotating mass (wheels, for example) has a larger impact on momentum and acceleration that static weight (frame, for example), focus on reducing rotating weight before static weight. Regardless, never ride products that are built too light for your size and power.

Click here for more detailed information on bicycle weight.

Intangible Items:

Intangible items like frame geometry, nature (side winds, rain…) and mechanical quality are nearly impossible to quantify, but can effect your performance anywhere from 0% to 100% during a ride. For example, if the wind catches the cross section of your deep aero wheels or aero frame beyond what you can control, your riding day could end early. From the quality of the materials and design of your equipment to the mechanical condition of your bike, intangible items are either non-issues or are the entire issue. Make sure you use products that are suitable to your individual situation and choose your bike and bike shop/technician accordingly.

Click here for more information on mechanical reliablity and other intangibles that can impact performance.

Cycling is a big picture sport and (with the exception of intangibles) it is rare that a single variable is going to make or break your performance on a given day. By carefully reviewing the needs of your individual situation with a qualified technician, you will be able to find products that fit you well and will maximize your potential by addressing your individual needs best.

Have a great season!

Ian

Originally published April 2006/Copyright © 2006

A version of this article was originally
published in Triathlete Magazine

My coach wants me to start using a power meter when riding so that we can track my progress in the coming season in hopes that I can race more consistently. The two main options that I have found are PowerTap and SRM. There looks to be a pretty big price difference between these two. What are the big differences and what really matters? Thanks.

Jason , PA

Dear Jason,

Power training is becoming to the new millennium what heart rate training was in the 1990’s – the most effective way known to train. By combining heart rate and cadence data with power and performance data, athletes can learn a lot about technique and how their body performs. When done properly, power training not can not only help to make you a stronger rider, but it can also help make you a smarter rider.

There are a few popular options to record power and they each have potential benefits and limitations. While I’m only going to address units that were designed to specifically address power and that are accurate within +/- 5%, it is worth noting that companies like CicloSport offer price based cycling computers that provide estimated power output and Polar offers a basic power system that can be used with some of their heart rate monitors.

How Does a Power Meter Work? Most power meters use calibrated strain gauges to detect power output. Strain gauges are usually small metallic or wire grids whose electrical resistance varies proportionate to the amount of resistance (strain) put against them. The number of strain gauges in combination with the materials, construction and alignment used, determines how accurately a device reads.

What are the important things to consider?

Location of Unit – Strain gauges require a surface where there is pressure (strain) to gather data. On the drivetrain, there are three primary places that are used: the hub, the bottom bracket or the crank itself. Each of the three most popular power meters use a different location.

PowerTap places the strain gauges inside the hub body of the wheel. The primary benefit to this is that you can use any crank you want and, with an inexpensive additional receiver unit, a PowerTap wheel and computer head can be switched between multiple bikes. The potential limitation is that you need to use a rear wheel built around a PowerTap hub and each additional wheel you want power information from needs to be built around a PowerTap hub (starting at $420 for the hub only).

Ergomo uses a bottom bracket design. The benefits of this design is that you can use any rear wheel you want and the power reading is taken from the bottom bracket, which is close to the power source (the rider’s feet). The potential downside is that it is not easy to swap between bikes (you need to remove the bottom bracket) and while the new 2006 design is scheduled to be available in square taper, Octalink and ISIS crank compatible versions, it will not be compatible with the most recent generation of external bearing cranks (FSA Mega-Exo, Shimano Hollowtech II, etc…).

SRM is a crank mounted design. The primary benefits are that the power reading is taken directly off the crank (where the power is being produced), you can use any rear wheel you want, and switching between multiple bikes just requires an extra sensor kit and the ability to swap the crank to the other bike (under 5 minutes). The potential downsides are that some frame designs with uniquely shaped chainstays can require some creative mounting of the sensor and you need to use a crank with an integrated SRM unit in it. This being said, SRM offers a wide selection of cranks, including Octalink and square taper compatible designs as well as two of the latest and best external bearing designs on the market (Shimano’s Dura Ace and FSA’s Carbon Mega-Exo with standard or compact gearing).

Accuracy – All three brands claim accuracy that is within the needs of any athlete. PowerTap +/- 1.5% on their units, Ergomo +/- 2% and SRM +/- 5% to +/- 0.5% (depending upon unit). While there are some other differences in construction, in general, the higher the degree of accuracy a unit has, the more strain gauges it uses to read the output.

On Board Display – Each power meter computer head offers different features in regards to the data it displays and collects. All units include a full functioned cycling computer with cadence, while advanced functions like altimeters are also included with some units. Visit each company’s web site for specifics:

www.srm.de

www.ergomo.net

www.cycleops.com (PowerTap)

Dependability and Service – The units improve yearly in this regard. PowerTap had some moisture sealing issues on some earlier units, but anything available now uses an improved design to address this. While PowerTap has had some delivery delays historically, they have always stood behind the product. SRM started working with power meters in 1986 and their units are known to be dependable. SRM also has a U.S. based Service Center which turns units around efficiently and quickly if they need factory service. Ergomo recently changed distributors in the U.S. to Gita Sporting Goods and this change should help them handle any issues efficiently.

Weight – All power meters are going to add a little weight to your bike, but the information they offer more than makes up for the minor weight gain. Over a standard full Dura Ace equipped component group, Ergomo or SRM will add approximately 300g and PowerTap will add from 240g-400g, depending upon model.

Software – While all of the power meters come with software that allows you to download data into your computer, many of our clients prefer aftermarket software like Cycling Peaks (www.cyclingpeakssoftware.com). Ergomo includes a Cycling Peaks software package.

Price – If you just need to use your system with one rear wheel, PowerTap offers the least expensive options with the standard system starting around $800 and the lighter PowerTap SL systems starting at $1300. However, if you plan on using the system with more than one wheel, you need to add in the price of any additional wheels ($1500+ for a Zipp rim version). The latest Ergomo hub system is $1600 and SRM units all include a crank and range from $2100 up to $5200 for the extremely accurate (+/- 0.5%) Science version.

Power meters have gone from “high tech” concepts available only to the top pro athletes to readily available training equipment applicable to any serious athlete. All three designs offer functional and reliable power data so it comes down to where you want the data to be gathered (hub, bottom bracket or crank), how many bikes and wheels you want to use the power meter with, and what other components you want to use in conjunction.

Train hard and train smart!

Ian

Want more information on PowerMeters or want to order one of the systems discussed above? Contact us toll free at 866-833-4FIT or e-mail info@fitwerx.com.

Originally published March 2006/Copyright © 2006

A version of this article was originally
published in Triathlete Magazine

I’m looking for a new bike and originally was thinking about titanium. However, some of the shops I’ve been in and many of my friends have been pushing me towards carbon fiber. Could you compare the two materials so that I can figure out what I should really be looking at? Thanks.

Kim, via the internet

Dear Kim,

There is a fair amount of misleading information out there about the benefits and disadvantages of different materials. Engineers have been heard to say, “There are not any bad materials, only poor applications.”. This is definitely true with bike design and, when done well, both titanium and carbon fiber are excellent materials to be considering. This being said, each material has benefits and potential drawbacks and who builds it will have more to do with the end results than the material being used.

By keeping the following three things in mind, you will be able to find a material and design that works well for you.

1) Fit – Regardless of material, do not even consider a bike that does not fit you well. It is highly recommended that you be professionally fit first and allow your riding position to determine which bikes match your riding position well. While many bike shops and consumers approach this in reverse and allow a bike model’s geometry to determine what the riding position will be, using the rider’s position to determine the frame is a much more reliable approach to finding a comfortable and efficient riding bike.

Titanium and carbon fabrication are very different and it affects the fit options available in each material. Titanium, and other metals, can be cut and welded to just about any length or dimension needed. Therefore, most titanium frames are available in a wide range of sizes and custom geometry is also readily available with many builders. If it is sized and designed properly, just about anyone should be able to get a properly fit titanium frame.

Carbon fiber frames are built in two primary ways – bladder molded (also called monocoque) or bonded (also called lugged) designs. Many of the most popular designs in triathlon (Cérvelo P3 Carbon, Kestrel Airfoil, Kuota Kalibur, QR Lucero…) are bladder molded as this technique offers almost limitless aero shaping options. However, bladder molding construction has one notable limitation – an expensive mold for each size must be built. For this reason, frame sizes are sometimes limited and these frames will either fit you well or not.

While not being as common with many triathlon specific brands, the other way to fabricate a carbon fiber frame is through bonded construction where tubes and lugs (think tinker toys) are epoxied together. Because each size does not require its own mold, more sizes are easier to offer and custom geometry is possible with some builders. With the notable exception of Guru’s Crono model, which is the first full carbon frame to offer custom geometry options and aero tubing, most lugged frames use round tubing.

2) Ride Quality – While generalizations like, “Carbon damps vibration but feels ‘dead’.” or “Titanium is lively, but not stiff.” are abundant, the reality is that they are also not particularly accurate. The ride quality of the frame is less about the material and more about how the builder used the material in their frame design.

Titanium tubing is available in a huge array of shapes and quality levels. What tubing is used and how determines whether a titanium bike will be stiff or soft, compliant or harsh. The important thing to make sure of is that the tubing and frame design matches your needs well. For example, if you are 120 lbs., over-sized tubes will make for a harsh riding frame, whereas if you are 200 lbs. it can help make the bike stiff enough for you. There are titanium frames available for virtually any size rider and it is a matter of finding the ones that match your ride quality needs best.

Carbon fiber’s biggest promise is that it can offer virtually infinite tuning and shaping options by altering the modulus (density) of the carbon and its lay-up. Depending upon how the designer specifies the frame lay-up and the quality of the carbon fiber, a carbon frame can be made to ride just about any way imaginable. However, because each design is different, like titanium, some frames will ride better for you as an individual than others, so scrutinize the design to make sure it will work well for you.

In both titanium or carbon, some of the better custom builders (Serotta, Parlee and Guru are good examples) offer models that actually match the flex of the frame tubing to your individual needs. This provides a ride quality that is individualized and uncompromised and often does not cost any more than a stock frame built with equivalent tubing and craftsmanship.

3) Ownership Experience/Goals – How long do you want to keep your bike/frame? What is the likelihood the bike will be in a crash? Do you ship or fly with your bike? These are important questions that many riders do not pay enough attention to and one of the places materials and builders can differ the most.

Titanium is an exceptionally hard, durable and corrosion proof material. When built properly, it is a lifetime frame material that puts up with abuse better than any other material. Another option is to consider a mixed material frame. The better mixed titanium/carbon bikes use high grade carbon in places where it can enhance the ride the most, while using titanium where it can enhance durability and sizing options most.

When built properly, carbon fiber can also last a long time. However, one of the challenges with carbon production is consistency in lay-up unit to unit. Carbon construction has little room for error and small inconsistencies in molding and bonding can lead to problems down the road. The more attention to detail and material a builder uses, the less likely such inconsistencies will occur. Research how the frame is built and by whom (many brands do not build their own frames) and explore if there are any known issues before buying it. A good dealer can provide a lot of insight in this regard.

Carbon fiber is also not as durable as metal. Chain mis-shifts, crashes, rubbing during transport and shipping are all more likely to damage carbon fiber than metal and more care must be used with carbon than with titanium. Regardless of material, the lightest frames tend to be built with the thinnest wall structures and often tend to be the most delicate, so choose accordingly and make sure that any frame you are considering will coexist with your training and lifestyle well.

Materials have advanced markedly in recent years and the ride and performance options available are better than ever. If you approach buying your new bike from an individualized standpoint, you will find the material and designs that fit and ride best for you.

Good luck and ride hard!

Ian

Originally published February 2006/Copyright © 2006